What’s included in a standard installation? A standard installation consists of the following tasks:
Standard Install Defined: (1) Standard install shall consist of exact replacement of existing water heater of which is “readily accessible”, on a solid structure capable of bearing the dead load of which will be exerted. (2) Cutting and re-connecting to properly sized copper water distribution piping directly above water heater to within three feet vertically, without turning off the main water shut off to the building, and without having to provide an offset to accommodate for possibly a larger footprint of the new water heater. (3) Removal and re-connect and or replace up to one foot of code approved aluminum venting. It is the “sellers” policy to require galvanized venting to be replaced, even though it may be up to the minimum code standards. Due to the corrosive nature of gas burning appliances, galvanized steel venting has the potential for failure resulting in the spilling of potentially harmful exhaust products into the building posing a serious threat to the health and safety of the occupants. (4) Disconnect and re-connect to properly supported gas line with code approved gas shut off valve. WHRPros will make necessary adjustments in the gas line between the water heaters gas shut off valve and new water heater at no additional fee. (5) Removal of old water heater, installation debris, and packaging material. (6) Post install: Check water heater gas line for leaks, check for proper draft and venting performance, check for water leaks at connections and shut off valve packing, set water heater thermostat at manufacturers recommended setting indicated by either a large arrow on dial or setting labeled “HOT”, introduce customer to new water heater and provide answers to questions customer may have.
What do I do in case of an emergency? In case of emergency:
1. For a gas water heater, turn the gas supply off by turning the shut-off handle in a clockwise direction.
For electric water heaters
2. Turn off the water supply to the water heater by locating the shut-off valve typically on the top right side. Turn the handle in a clockwise direction.
3. Drain the water heater (if necessary).Attach a garden hose to the tank drain which is located near the bottom of the water heater. Open the hot side of a faucet(utility sink is preferred) to allow air to enter the water heater while draining. Route the garden hose to a floor drain or other suitable drain that is located at a lower elevation than the wate heater. Open the tank drain by either turning the handle in a counterclockwise direction or some models require a standard flat tipped screwdriver in that case you will still turn the tank drain on with a counter clocwise direction of the screwdriver.
What is a permit and why do I need it?
Permits are governed by local cities and municipalities and required to ensure that a local plumbing inspector is dispatched to the site as a third party to review the workmanship of the installer. This is meant to ensure that the install has been executed safely and in line with local city and state plumbing codes and ensures that the quality of workmanship by our licensed professional installers meets plumbing standards.
What makes your warranty better?
Most conventional water heaters are sold with a 6 year warranty. However, this warranty is only 6 years on parts and 1 year on labor and since labor is the most expensive portion of a water heater service call, you are not well protected. This is why we decided to offer as our standard warranty, 8 years on parts, 8 years on labor and 8 years on the tank. Our warranty will keep you protected for long term versus the short term.
How much hot water will a gas water heater produce per hour? Electric?
Your hot water tank per hour hot water production depends on your groundwater temperature and the temperature degree rise that you require. A good rule of thumb is that a standard residential gas water heater will produce approximately 35-45 gallons per hour (GPH) of hot water. High Input gas models will provide about 50-60 GPH. Electric water heaters with 4500-watt elements heat approximately 18-25 GPH and 5500 watt elements provide approximately 25-35 GPH.
How can I tell how old my water heater is?
It is as easy as calling one of our experts at 612-581-4484. We will walk you through finding out the age of your water heater and we will even let you know if it is still under warranty.
Do I have a faulty dip tube? What if I am getting small flakes or particles in my water? Your water heater’s dip tube is a plastic tube that sends the incoming cold water to the bottom of the tank to prevent it from mixing with the hot water going to your faucets. This helps the tank heat more efficiently and promotes energy efficiency. There was a period of time when dip tubes were defective (in particular for water heaters manufactured between 1993-1997).
Faulty dip tubes disintegrate slowly, and the particles and chunks clog up faucets, aerators and other plumbing fixtures.
If you experience this problem, we recommend that you replace your water heater tank as it can be very difficult to remove the disintegrated particles form the old tank and they can continue to clog up your plumbing fixtures.
I have NO HOT WATER – what should I do? If you have a gas water heater, check to see if your pilot light has gone out. If so, try relighting the pilot, or call 612-581-4484 and one of our water heater experts would be happy to walk you through the process.
If you have an electric water heater, try resetting the unit or checking to see if your breaker switch has been flipped to the off position; you can also turn the breaker switch off and then on. If you need help determining what is wrong with your water heater and why you’re not getting any hot water, give us a call at 612-581-4484.
There is a small PUDDLE OF WATER at the base of the tank. Should I be concerned?
Try to determine where the leak is coming from. If it looks like it’s coming from the bottom of the tank, and not from anywhere on top, it could mean that your water heater lining has been compromised. Unfortunately, this isn’t an issue you can repair, so you may need to think about replacing your water heater. While some homeowners will let a tank leak slowly for several days to weeks or months before they replace the water heater, we advise taking care of the problem before it develops into a more significant leak.
Sometimes I hear a RUBMLING NOISE OR A LOUD BANG. What is going on?
What you’re hearing is a result of thermal expansion. Due to sediment that often settles at the bottom of your tank, heat has more difficulty leaving the bottom of the water heater. These sounds shouldn’t immediately concern you, but it does mean that the water heater is probably working harder than it should, which could shorten the life of the tank, and will definitely lead to a less efficient tank that costs more to operate.
I have HIGH WATER PRESSURE in my home. How does this affect my water heater?
High water pressure can damage water heaters, piping, and appliances. If the water pressure entering your home is above 80 psi, you should consider installing a pressure reducing valve to limit the incoming pressure. High water pressure is an unexpected but common culprit in reducing the useful life of your water heater.
There is RUST at the bottom of my tank. What should I do about this?
Rust on the outside of your tank is often just an indication of an old water heater. It doesn’t necessarily mean that the inside lining of your water heater is compromised, but you might want to have it looked at. If it’s more than 15 years old, replacing your water heater can be a preventative measure to save you from a very messy (or wet) situation.
Do I need a BLANKET on my water heater?
Homeowners and installers used to install blankets on water heaters to provide an extra layer of insulation, allowing the water heater to retain heat and operate more efficiently. These days, manufacturers are building extra insulation into the tank itself, so blankets are no longer recommended. And, more than anything, some consider them to be a fire hazard.
What is the FIRST HOUR RATING and what does it mean?
The first hour rating is a measurement of how much hot water you can get out of your water heater per hour (starting with a full tank of hot water). As you use hot water, your water heater is able to heat new incoming water at a rate known as the recovery rate. Typically gas water heaters have a much higher recovery rate than electric water heaters, so while a 40 gallon gas water heater can have a first hour rating of around 70 gallons, a 40 gallon electric water heater might only produce 50 gallons of hot water in an hour and have a 50-gallon first hour rating.
My water SMELLS BAD. Should I be concerned?
Whether you realized it or not, it’s highly likely that the foul-smelling odor you smell in your water is coming from your water heater. If there is a low amount of chlorine in your city water, there may be odor-causing bacteria that are producing this unpleasant smell when they come into contact with sulfates produced by corrosion. Sanitizing your water heater and piping, replacing old plumbing with copper, or replacing the anode rod could help, but you also need to consider replacing the water heater. It is possible that the odor-causing bacteria could cause health issues, so if the odor is particularly bad, consider getting some help from a professional.
How can I SAVE ENERGY with my water heater?
Shutting off your water heater when you go away and taking shorter showers is the best way to save money and energy with regards to your water heater. Remember, you pay to heat the water you use in your shower, your dishwasher, your laundry machine, your hot tub, etc! Replacing an old, inefficient water heater with a new Energy Star tank water heater can help save up to $100 per year on the typical home’s water heating costs.
Do you provide other services?
Yes, we are a full service plumbing firm, specializing in water heaters. We have provided full service plumbing needs for over 20 years.